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Orchid Propagation

 

Sometimes it's not enough to just repot your orchid. You may have repotted it several times and now it's simply too large. Or you may want to increase the number of your orchid plants without buying them. If you are hesitant to cut or split your treasured plant, don't be! This is actually beneficial. It breathes new life into your orchid, encouraging new and healthier growth. This article reviews propagation techniques with step-by-step instruction for the simplest and most common methods.

There are six major ways to propagate orchids: division, back bulb propagation, keiki or stem propagation, aerial cuttings, meristem or tissue culture, and seed. Division and keiki are the most common techniques. The least common home techniques are seed and meristem which are used in sterile laboratory settings.

It's best to propagate when your orchid needs repotting which is when the new growth has reached the edge of the pot and further growth will extend outside the pot. When removing the plant from the pot, inspect to be sure each division will have at least three "back bulbs" (otherwise known as "pseudobulbs" - bulbous growths nestled among the roots - which store water and nutrients for the orchid in case of a bad season) and one new growth. If you don't find this, simply repot and skip propagation until the next repotting time. Otherwise the division that has less than three back bulbs and one new growth will not have enough strength to flower the following season and take three or more years to rebloom. For the most common orchid, Phalaenopsis, also known as the Phal, moth, and ice orchid, you're looking for the keiki growth rather than bulbs - refer to the keiki method below.

As with repotting, propagation is best undertaken in the early spring just as new growth starts. This will insure that each new plant has a full growing season to establish itself. You can expect flowers by the following season.

Step-By-Step Instructions For The Division Method 
Division is used on orchid varieties which have back bulbs such as Beallara, Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, Coelogyne, Miltonia, Dracula, Masdevallais and Paphiopedilums. Keiki is just for Phalaenopsis. Division simply means splitting the plant into two or more parts with at least one new shoot per division. Each will produce a fully grown flowering orchid by the following season.

1. The Day Before: Water your orchid thoroughly. A good watering the day before creates pliable roots which are easier to handle and less susceptible to breakage. Best to propagate and/or repot the day after your usual watering day.

2. Un-pot Your Orchid: Prepare your work area by sterilizing all the surfaces you will be working on as well as your tools and your hands, particularly if you area a smoker. Use a solution of 1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Soak your tools and pot for 15 minutes and then allow to air dry. Turn the plant upside down and tap the sides and bottom of the pot to dislodge it. If roots stick to the pot, use a sterilized kitchen knife to loosen them. The plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage some roots. If your orchid has been in its pot for a couple of years the root ball may be compact with roots following the shape of the pot. A nice trick is to gently squeeze the root ball and turn it 45 degrees. Repeat until the root ball has loosened.

3. Trim: Before dividing, trim the roots. Again be sure to sterilize all your tools. Remove any dead or damaged roots. Dead roots are mushy and light brown. Healthy roots are firm and white with light-green growing tips. Some orchid roots are not white such as Paphiopedilums which have dark brown or even black roots. They are firm to the touch and not soft like a rotted root. Cut the dead roots right up to the base of the plant to insure that they don't rot the rhizome. Remove any ferns or other plants growing in the pot otherwise they will clog the medium with their root systems, use nutrients, and hinder water drainage and aeration. Carefully trim the growing roots to about 4 inches. Avoid breaking or cutting any shorter roots as these will be the ones that establish your new repotted orchid. Dead leaves are easily removed as they will have broken away from the plant on their own. Dying leaves need tearing down the central vein in the leaf by making a small tear right at the tip of the leaf and then pulling each half in opposite directions right down to the stem. The old flowering spike needs removing as close to the stem as possible to prevent rotting. Also inspect for pests and disease - treat both immediately by removing insects, and cutting out infected areas of leaves. Apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment from your medicine cabinet or appropriate product available from your nearest garden centre, to the cut or break.

4. Divide. Find a natural break between the two or more parts of the plant and divide down this natural split. If there is more than one new growth, or "lead," divide the plant by cutting through the rhizome. Each division should have at least three pseudobulbs and a new lead.

5. Pot. The pot must have a hole in the bottom for drainage. Remember to sterilize the pot. Don't use too large a pot or growth will concentrate in root development rather than flowers. Orchids like being a bit tight in their pots.

6. Place Shards: Orchids need excellent drainage, so place a generous layer of broken clay pot pieces, or styrofoam peanuts, or big chunks of bark on the bottom of the pot. This is to block medium from escaping out the hole, but water should be able to drench all the roots and pass immediately out of the pot.

7. Add Soil: Ease the roots in to the pot and spread them evenly to ensure that the plant will be securely anchored. Don't put the plant in the center of the pot. Instead position it in such a way that the new growth is in the center. This will insure that there is space in front of the new growth for 2 growing seasons. Use the appropriate grade of orchid medium. For instance, use 1/4 inch bark for orchids with thin roots, ½ inch for thicker rooted orchids such as Cymbidiums. The easiest way to add medium is to hold the plant in one hand, and fill the pot with medium using the other. Make sure the bulbs rest on the surface of the compost and are not buried. They may need pulling up a little to get the level just right. Using your thumbs, press on the medium to compact it and hold the plant steady. The bulky shape of the bark compost naturally prevents over compacting, so don't hesitate to apply pressure. An orchid which wobbles in its pot will not root well. Use your fingers to gently place bark pieces between all the roots. The top of the rhizome should be level with the top of the bark.

8. Aftercare: To keep the plants upright while their new root systems are getting established, stake with a loop of twine or plant clips. Give it a good soaking from the top. Do this twice with 2 hours between to ensure the medium is damp and then leave it for two to three weeks before watering again. Mist the leaves and bark surface twice daily until new growth is evident. During the first 6 to 8 weeks keep the plant in a shady place and leave it alone other than watering to give the new roots time to establish. You'll see new roots in about 6 weeks. The plant will be fully established after approximately 10 weeks. Once the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plants into brighter light and resume normal watering and fertilizing.

The Keiki Method 
Keiki's are produced by Phalaenopsis orchids. A keiki is a small plant that grows on a node along the flower spike. It looks something like the leafy growth on the offshoot of a spider plant. Look closely at a Phalaenopsis flower spike and you will notice approximately 2 to 3 small bracts or nodes. When a Phal has finished flowering cut the flower spike back to just above one of these nodes and a new flower spike will grow from it. Otherwise keiki will grow from these nodes instead of a branch. The reason for this is an accumulation of growth hormones, naturally occurring or artificially induced by the application of keiki paste which is a concentrated form of the growth hormones. Let them grow in place until they produce several roots and two or three leaves - about 14 to 26 weeks. At this point carefully remove the small plant from the flower spike by cutting the stem 1 to 2 inches on either side of the keiki. This will ensure that you don't damage the roots of the Keiki. Then follow potting instructions above. Flowers will appear within two years.

Other Propagation Methods 
Back Bulb Propagation. Propagation by back bulb is a method often used with Cymbidiums. It takes 3 to 4 years to obtain a flowering size plant from a single back bulb. The advantage is its simplicity. Completely remove a back bulb. Since back bulbs are the plant's store of food and water for difficult growing seasons, and since we tend them regularly with optimum growing conditions, back bulbs can be removed with no problems. However a few basic rules must be followed: always leave the parent plant with at least two back bulbs and one new growth. This will insure flowering by the following season. And only remove bulbs from plants which are healthy and strong. A weak plant will probably not survive the shock of having its bulbs removed and its roots trimmed.

Wash the bulbs in a 5 percent solution of either household bleach or Milton Fluid to kill any bacteria. Take care not to damage the dormant buds or "eyes" at the base of the bulb. Mist 2 times-a-day both the 'cutting' and the parent to provide higher humidity until new growth is seen. Place the cleaned bulbs individually in clear plastic bags of moist (not wet!) sphagnum moss and hang them in the highest and warmest part of your greenhouse or place the bulbs in individual pots of fine grade medium. Put some small holes in each bag to allow air to circulate and prevent rot, and place them in indirect sun where they will not be disturbed. You should see small shoots appear from the base of each bulb in 12 to 16 weeks.

Aerial Cuttings. Aerial cuttings are very common on many of the cane Dendrobiums such as Nobile. If placed under stressful growing conditions then some Dendrobiums will produce small plants in place of flower buds - fine for increasing your stock but not if you want flowers! Aerial cuttings are very easy to take as the plant is almost fully grown before being removed from the parent plant.

Meristem or Tissue Culture. Meristem culture is done under strict laboratory conditions of cleanliness and sterility. This is a laborious and careful method of propagation where the very centre of a new growth bud is removed and placed in a special nutrient rich liquid where it grows and then split into small sections. These sections are then either grown into plants or the process is repeated to produce even more plants. This method is used to mass produce hybrids for commercial purposes. This method is not used at home for obvious reasons, but you can purchase flasks of the tissue cultures. It takes 3 to 5 years to get a flowering plant from this process.

Seed. This method is also best suited for laboratory conditions as sterile conditions are required. Orchid seed is almost like dust and unlike ordinary seed which has a starchy food within it to sustain the growing seedling, orchid seed has none and thus special techniques are required to sustain it during formative stages of development.

For more information about propagating orchids visit http://www.SecretLifeOfOrchids.com for essential tips about purchasing, transporting, repotting, watering, pruning, fertilizing, and other critical factors for growing beautiful orchids easily and inexpensively